Hunter and Curlew Islands 13th – 15th June

At first light we pulled the anchor and began our careful exit of the creek. It was a making tide and as we approached the narrow part of the channel lumpy swirling water had us keeping a wary eye on the chartplotter and echo sounder.  Once out, tensions faded and we were on our way to new destinations. The tide was against us for most of the morning so progress slowed to 4kn, but later in the day as the tide turned we made up time by flying along at up to 6.5kn. This whole region is the defence forces Shoalwater Bay Military Training Area, so access is not always possible. Luckily while we were there no exercises were scheduled. As we rounded Cape Townsend a vista of open sea dotted with numerous small islands and islets greeted us. Our destination, the Duke Islands, turned out to be a scenic, grassy group of islands with several anchorages depending on the wind direction. We anchored in a bay on the west side of Hunter Island. As we rounded the point we discovered Ron and his yacht Roseanne already snugly anchored in the corner. We left him an age ago in Marine Stadium on the Gold Coast, so it was good to catch up on his news. The Duke Islands were used extensively for cattle grazing in the past and the islands themselves are covered in long green grass, outcrops of pine trees and steep rocky promontories. By nightfall six boats were anchored in the bay all probably enroute to the Whitsundays.

 

Whirlpools and turbulence in Lola Mantes Pass

After a comfortable night at Hunter Island we joined Arkaydes and Roseanne for the 33nm sail to Curlew Island. We started out with glassy conditions and rode the strong tidal currents between the islands with the motor going. (“Don’t conk out here please!”) By lunchtime grey clouds were building again and it was not long before drizzle set in accompanied by strong gusts of wind and by the time we approached Curlew Island conditions were deteriorating, not to mention the breaking water on the nearby shoals and the tidal races between them and the nearby islands. Given the option it is probably better to try and avoid spring tides in this area.
 

Little Lily Mia Cat

We are slow learners! In the glassy conditions of the morning we were lulled into a false sense of security and decided to tow the dinghy to Curlew Island. All went well for a while and Lily sat comfortably in her tucked in position near Rene’s starboard quarter. She began to toss about as the wind strengthened until at one stage I decided not to look as she threatened to climb on board or beat her own path across the ocean on the sharp, bouncy seas rolling under us. I’d even resigned myself to buying a new dinghy if necessary.  Still the wind and seas built and I decided to go downstairs to read. No point two of us getting wet as the rain squalls rolled through.

We approached Curlew Island from the east and passed between it and Bluff Island. Bluff Island has a high overhanging cliff on one end and a pinnacle of rock at the other. I thought it worth a photo and poked my head out of the companionway with the camera. By now our jaunty little dinghy was having the time of her life. With Rene pitching about and using one hand to hold on and one for the camera it took some time to take the photo. All the while our exuberant dinghy kept bouncing up into the frame like some leaping, sproinging  Mia Cat. It made me smile as she seemed to yell, “Take my photo!” and “Here I am!”, “It’s me again!” with every wave that passed.

 

Bluff Island, near Curlew Island

 After this performance we are now going to put her away for open sea crossings - ALWAYS, even if the weather looks perfect. On the trip to Mackay a bedraggled, grey bundle was packed into the back of the cockpit and it sat there safely for the whole trip.

Curlew Island 

Both nights spent at Curlew Island were uncomfortable. The wind was strong and bullets of wind blustered through the anchorage all night. Half of each night was OK, but when the tide turned Rene rode over the anchor warp and it was held tightly under the hull. This caused some very disturbing cracking, crunching noises. I anxiously stayed awake listening while Peter snored!! Trying to reassure me he said it was a bit like those phone toys we used to make as kids with two tins and a piece of string that amplified the sound. “Not as bad as it sounds.” I still worried and finally fell asleep four hours later, as  the tide slowed and the wind against tide situation eased.

 

Curlew is a pretty island with a long golden beach and a tall, mountainous, sheer cliff at one end. A walk along the beach in the morning blew away the night’s cobwebs. We joined Ric and Val on Arkaydes for a roast dinner, along with Ron from Roseanne, and had a lovely meal with good company.

During the day Peter experimented with the tiller in an effort to alleviate the anchor warp dragging on the hull problems of the night before. He decided to rope the tiller to one side - nothing happened. However when he roped the tiller across to the other side Rene quickly drifted off the anchor warp and was held at a right angle causing no problem at all.  On the second night the wind blew ferociously again, but at least we didn’t have the racket of the night before. After two nights of little sleep we decided to make the break for Mackay Marina.

 

Anchorage at Curlew Island