Whitsunday Island 24th – 26th June

 

Arkaydes and Rene in Turle Bay Whitsunday Island

 



Arkaydes was already anchored in Turtle Bay as we approached then claimed our own spot nearby. It didn’t take long to settle in and drive Lily ashore to explore the beaches. After having a good look around we met up with Ric, Val and Tige on the beach. They had the toys out – a paddle board and kayak. Ric talked Peter into having a go on the paddle board. He managed to stand up and paddle without losing his balance, despite the helpful advice from the rest of us on the beach and came back without falling off. Then they suggested I have a go. After some hesitation I decided not to be a whimp and clambered on the board. I had just stood up, legs wide as instructed when Tige decided he was not going to be left out this time. He hopped on, shot through my legs and took up his position as lookout on the front of the board. That was almost my undoing. Due to lack of expertise I had no option but to continue on my wobbly way with Tige on board. We did pretty well actually. At least we didn’t fall off, although Tige began whimpering as the board wobbled alarmingly in the 10cm surf near the beach. I want one of those boards! It was fun and I can see myself happily paddling around these beautiful bays for hours in this perfect weather.

 

After lunch we called into Hamilton Island to purchase some dinghy fuel before motor/sailing to Cid Harbour for a few days. This lovely anchorage is sheltered from all winds, except perhaps westerlies, and many boats anchor in this calm bay on the western side of Whitsunday Island. We found room in the southern end in a little bay known as Cowards Corner, for those who do not want to put up with any sou'wester. We spent three days here exploring the national park walk tracks that lead out of Sawmill Bay. One follows the shore 1km to Dugong Bay, a pretty, easy walk through the rain forest. The other is much more difficult and winds its way up to the summit of the 437m Whitsunday Peak. It is well worth the effort as the view from the top is stunning. A short track across the peak affords a view south to the skyscrapers of Hamilton Island and beyond.

 

 

Dugong Bay walk track



 

 

Whitsunday Peak

 

We started our walk down there at Sawmill Beach

 

Shag Island Cruising Yacht Club

We have joined the Shag Island Cruising Yacht Club, so we are now known as ‘Shaggers’. It seems to have started a few years ago as a bit of fun and quickly developed into a huge organisation. At present it has almost 3,000 members from all over the world. We met Ken, the founder, yesterday and received our Vice Commodores burgee. Every member is a Vice Commodore and you have to nominate a place to be VC of. Peter is VC of Emu Point and I am joining as soon as we get internet reception as VC of Johnson’s Cove, which is near Emu Point, Albany. It sounds like fun, but also has a serious side in raising funds for Prostate Cancer Research. A ‘Rendezvous, 4 days and 3 nights of Riotous Fun and Frivolity’ is scheduled for 28^th to 31^st August, at Montes Resort in Gloucester Passage, so we intend to participate before making our way to Townsville soon afterwards. Many of the friends we have met along the way will be going so I’m looking forward to it. The club is so influential now that members are able to access various deals at Airlie Beach Marina and Yacht Club and two courtesy cars are now available to hire for 3 hours at a time for the price of topping up the fuel tank and a donation to the Prostate Cancer fund.

Goldsmith, Thomas and Shaw Islands 21st, 22nd & 23rd June

We spent a night each at these beautiful islands in the southern Whitsundays and could easily have spent more time in this area, but it is not long before we fly to Perth. Time is limited so we must not drag our feet too much.

 Isabelle Rose Mitchell

 

 During the night of the 22^nd we received a text message from Karin, our daughter, with the exciting news that she and Paul now have a baby girl, Isabelle Rose, 7lb 1 oz who is the spitting image of her father. Both are well so we are relieved and looking forward to seeing them next week. We received this news in such a magnificent spot – Thomas Island. Every time I think of this delightful place I will remember the birth of our second little granddaughter.

 Goldsmith Island

 

A 10nm motor/sail to Goldsmith Island was very pleasant after all the sailing we have done in cloudy, rainy, blustery weather recently. Bright sunshine brought out all the colours of this beautiful landscape, the aqua sea, golden beaches and dark green of the vegetation. Plenty of recent rain has ensured that the plants look crisp and refreshed and are shooting out new growth. As far as we can see into the distant north are islands, rugged, mountainous and dramatic. Of the two recommended anchorages on Goldsmith Island we chose the eastern bay. Ric and Val took their BBQ ashore and with us and Judy and Ray from Noosa, we sizzled the sausages and steak and sat gazing at the beauty surrounding us as the sun slowly sank below the horizon. There was little interference from the current in the bay and we had a comfortable night.

Barby on the beach

 



 

Thomas Island

 

 

 

Rock orchids on Thomas Island

I can’t believe it! The scenery just keeps getting better. Thomas is a rugged, rocky island and on approach from the south east appears to be predominantly bare, rocky, high hills sparsely covered with pine trees and bush. As we rounded the eastern end a series of superb beaches and rocky points greeted us. The north side of the island is densely wooded, with many large pine trees covering the hillsides. As usual several boats were anchored before us, so we chose a suitable spot between Young Tom’s Island and Thomas itself. It is such a pretty place and I would have to say one of my favourites. Only a few nautical miles to the north is the long, mountainous Shaw Island with its rocky, southern satellites which adds even more drama to this spectacular place. Beautiful! We have had perfect weather for the last couple of days and what a difference that makes. We now feel we have reached paradise.

 

Rene at anchor - Thomas Island

 

 

 

Shaw Island

Shaw Island is not as spectacular as Goldsmith and Thomas Islands, but it is larger and has a couple of good anchorages. We rounded Burning Point on the western end and anchored in a large shallow bay a long way from the shore. Peter and I took the dinghy ashore and enjoyed a walk around a long beach before retiring to Rene for our evening meal. The evening was cloudless, with no moon, so a million stars lit the night sky. Next morning we headed off early for Whitsunday Island via the eastern end of Kennedy Sound, around Lindeman Island and past the steep, craggy Pentecost Island. There was no wind so we motored in glassy conditions and enjoyed the magnificent scenery along the way. Our destination was south facing Turtle Bay on Whitsunday Island.

Pentecost Island

Brampton Island 19th – 20th June

 

Pelican Islet - Bad hair day!

On a cool and rainy morning we left Mackay Marina, with Arkaydes, after purchasing ice and fresh bread. A quick trip saw us anchored in the bay between Pelican Islet and Swordfish Point, Brampton Island, for a late lunch. Both Carlisle and Brampton are quite mountainous islands so the view from Rene was stunning. There is only a very narrow channel between Brampton and Carlisle Islands. The Brampton Island Resort remains closed and is looking shabby and derelict now. Ric and Val suggested that we take some nibbles and drinks for a sundowner on the deck of the old swimming pool on the beach. Presently someone noticed that there was a small reef shark circling in the pool with several trevally accompanying it. Others joined us and we had a delightful evening swapping stories and enjoying the late afternoon sun in a truly beautiful spot. A caretaker remains at the resort and he informed us that the company that has brought the complex is going to pull the lot down and begin afresh.

 

Brampton Island - becoming derelict

On day two Peter and I decided to take the walk track up to the lookout for some exercise and to get a few photos of the area from above. The track is overgrown in places as no maintenance has been carried out for a while. The main culprit here is that garden plants and weeds from the resort have naturalised in the bush along the track, have grown waist high and threaten to overrun the bush in places. It was a strenuous walk and well worth the effort for the view from the lookout at the top. A group of people gathered at the pool again for sundowners and as darkness approached we all scattered to our respective boats tired from our day’s activities and happy in the knowledge that friendship between like-minded people is very satisfying.

 

Mackay Marina 17th – 18th June

Our trip to Mackay took us through the Mackay Outer Harbour port area where many huge ships are anchored to await their turn at the coal loading facility at Hay Point. We counted 23, but there could have been more as they were parked as far as the eye could see.

 

Not nice! Luckily it was anchored!

 

Mackay Marina has plenty of room for visiting boats and the facilities and service are excellent. They appear to be making a big effort to encourage visitors to use the marina. We were lucky to be there for the fortnightly Marina BBQ  - sausage sizzle, salad and drinks supplied. The hot showers are blissful. I think I emptied half the Mackay water supply on the first night. A big shop for supplies was needed, so with Ric and Val we hired the marina car for the day. We got a special deal and for $39 we had the car for the whole day instead of half a day. Day two saw Val and I off to the marina hairdresser. She was well worth the visit and I felt civilized again when she had finished.  That night we had Ric and Val for Beef in Red wine on board Rene.
 

Peter Loses Tiger

During the afternoon that we had the marina car Ric, Val and I decided to hit the shops in Mackay. Peter, not interested in more shopping, decided to stay back and dogsit Tige and work on a few boat jobs. All went well for a while. Then Pete decided to go below and do a small maintenance job on Rene. He tied Tige to the winch and told him to stay put. A few minutes later when he popped his head out, no Tige, only an empty collar and lead attached to the winch. Panic!! Peter searched our pontoon. No Tige! Meanwhile Ric got a phone call to let him know that his dog had befriended all the girls in the marina office. Someone had let him out of the locked marina gate. Ric rang an anguished Peter to tell him the dog had been found. Apparently Tige did the guilty, hang dog look when Pete rescued him. The funny thing is that when we were on the beach having sundowners on Brampton Island this evening, someone we’d never met before, brought up the “lost dog” episode at the Mackay Marina. Must have been a good story!!

 

Thinking about it

 

 

Hunter and Curlew Islands 13th – 15th June

At first light we pulled the anchor and began our careful exit of the creek. It was a making tide and as we approached the narrow part of the channel lumpy swirling water had us keeping a wary eye on the chartplotter and echo sounder.  Once out, tensions faded and we were on our way to new destinations. The tide was against us for most of the morning so progress slowed to 4kn, but later in the day as the tide turned we made up time by flying along at up to 6.5kn. This whole region is the defence forces Shoalwater Bay Military Training Area, so access is not always possible. Luckily while we were there no exercises were scheduled. As we rounded Cape Townsend a vista of open sea dotted with numerous small islands and islets greeted us. Our destination, the Duke Islands, turned out to be a scenic, grassy group of islands with several anchorages depending on the wind direction. We anchored in a bay on the west side of Hunter Island. As we rounded the point we discovered Ron and his yacht Roseanne already snugly anchored in the corner. We left him an age ago in Marine Stadium on the Gold Coast, so it was good to catch up on his news. The Duke Islands were used extensively for cattle grazing in the past and the islands themselves are covered in long green grass, outcrops of pine trees and steep rocky promontories. By nightfall six boats were anchored in the bay all probably enroute to the Whitsundays.

 

Whirlpools and turbulence in Lola Mantes Pass

After a comfortable night at Hunter Island we joined Arkaydes and Roseanne for the 33nm sail to Curlew Island. We started out with glassy conditions and rode the strong tidal currents between the islands with the motor going. (“Don’t conk out here please!”) By lunchtime grey clouds were building again and it was not long before drizzle set in accompanied by strong gusts of wind and by the time we approached Curlew Island conditions were deteriorating, not to mention the breaking water on the nearby shoals and the tidal races between them and the nearby islands. Given the option it is probably better to try and avoid spring tides in this area.
 

Little Lily Mia Cat

We are slow learners! In the glassy conditions of the morning we were lulled into a false sense of security and decided to tow the dinghy to Curlew Island. All went well for a while and Lily sat comfortably in her tucked in position near Rene’s starboard quarter. She began to toss about as the wind strengthened until at one stage I decided not to look as she threatened to climb on board or beat her own path across the ocean on the sharp, bouncy seas rolling under us. I’d even resigned myself to buying a new dinghy if necessary.  Still the wind and seas built and I decided to go downstairs to read. No point two of us getting wet as the rain squalls rolled through.

We approached Curlew Island from the east and passed between it and Bluff Island. Bluff Island has a high overhanging cliff on one end and a pinnacle of rock at the other. I thought it worth a photo and poked my head out of the companionway with the camera. By now our jaunty little dinghy was having the time of her life. With Rene pitching about and using one hand to hold on and one for the camera it took some time to take the photo. All the while our exuberant dinghy kept bouncing up into the frame like some leaping, sproinging  Mia Cat. It made me smile as she seemed to yell, “Take my photo!” and “Here I am!”, “It’s me again!” with every wave that passed.

 

Bluff Island, near Curlew Island

 After this performance we are now going to put her away for open sea crossings - ALWAYS, even if the weather looks perfect. On the trip to Mackay a bedraggled, grey bundle was packed into the back of the cockpit and it sat there safely for the whole trip.

Curlew Island 

Both nights spent at Curlew Island were uncomfortable. The wind was strong and bullets of wind blustered through the anchorage all night. Half of each night was OK, but when the tide turned Rene rode over the anchor warp and it was held tightly under the hull. This caused some very disturbing cracking, crunching noises. I anxiously stayed awake listening while Peter snored!! Trying to reassure me he said it was a bit like those phone toys we used to make as kids with two tins and a piece of string that amplified the sound. “Not as bad as it sounds.” I still worried and finally fell asleep four hours later, as  the tide slowed and the wind against tide situation eased.

 

Curlew is a pretty island with a long golden beach and a tall, mountainous, sheer cliff at one end. A walk along the beach in the morning blew away the night’s cobwebs. We joined Ric and Val on Arkaydes for a roast dinner, along with Ron from Roseanne, and had a lovely meal with good company.

During the day Peter experimented with the tiller in an effort to alleviate the anchor warp dragging on the hull problems of the night before. He decided to rope the tiller to one side - nothing happened. However when he roped the tiller across to the other side Rene quickly drifted off the anchor warp and was held at a right angle causing no problem at all.  On the second night the wind blew ferociously again, but at least we didn’t have the racket of the night before. After two nights of little sleep we decided to make the break for Mackay Marina.

 

Anchorage at Curlew Island

 

 

Six Days In Island Head Creek 7th - 12th June

 

Snug and cosy in Island Head Creek

 

We set off for Island Head Creek knowing that we would be there for a few days due to a forecast of bad weather approaching and the creek’s reputation for comfort and safety beckoned. Do not arrive here in the dark! The entrance is tricky and visuals are needed to augment what is seen on the chart plotter. As we motored into the outer anchorage we noticed a large ketch beached to the north of the creek and thought to ourselves that this was not a good place to be. Later we discovered that it had indeed been wrecked a month or two before our arrival. We motored past six other craft anchored in the outer creek behind a sandbar, but didn’t like the way they were being held side on to the current by the wind. Wind over tide antics – not if we can help it!!! By the time we had motored 5nm down to the third creek to starboard, light was fading and we found a snug 7m anchorage in the middle of the creek. Four other boats were already there and we settled in for a few days. The tidal range is becoming more of an issue as we travel north to an area where the tides are the highest on the East Coast, some 8m in places.

 

More fresh rain water

Rain! Rain! Rain! Wind! Wind! Wind! For the next five days we were largely confined to the boat. Collecting water, Scrabble with Ric and Val, reading books, an occasional sojourn in Lily and the interest of a new boat appearing in the anchorage sustained us, although by day three we were going a little boat crazy. The muddy mangrove creek edges ensure that going ashore is out of the question. Mud, insects and the fear of crocodiles put paid to that. The scenery however, is stunning, a little less grand version of Hinchinbrook Island Channel. Eventually the weather eased and we made our way to the outer creek for a day of exploring before moving on the islands to the north. Whilst out there Peter and I decided to take a long walk to the wreck we had seen on the northern shore on the way in. What a sad sight. A lovely ketch washed up to the highest tide line, her keel buried in the sand, rudder broken and slowly being demolished by the elements. Her registration was May 2014 so the grounding had been quite recent. Later Val looked on the internet and found the sad story. ‘Navigational error!’

 

At last the weather cleared and we made ready for a morning departure to the Duke Islands, the Hunter Island anchorage in particular, some 40nm north.

 

Great Keppel Island 3rd - 5th June

 

Scoping Hummocky Island

 

From our surge prone anchorage on Hummocky Island we could clearly see Great Keppel in the distance beckoning us to a smoother stopover and a more diverse opportunity for walks ashore. It was a quick sail in about 10kn of breeze, although the island disappeared in a steady downpour of rain as we approached from the eastern side. Long white sandy beaches could be seen ashore and the island itself cloaked in a dark green sea of bush and trees. Several boats were already anchored in Second Bay, but we chose Leeke Bay next door. There seemed to be more depth there and less problem for first timers working out where the shallow ground was. It proved to be a quiet spot although windier than Second Bay due to the hills being much lower there. Nearly all the other boats that came during the day anchored in Second Bay and we began to feel like we were 'Nigel No Friends'. We stayed put with two small catamarans and enjoyed delightful conditions.

 

Rick, Val, Tiger and Liz at Leeke Beach Great Keppel Island

There are numerous walk tracks here and we could have stayed much longer had it not been for the necessity for food and of course beer. We will definitely come back to this island in the future as it is one of the highlights of our trip this year. After settling in Rick, Val and Tiger came over to join us for a pleasant walk along Leeke Beach, a broad swathe of clean, white sand stretching to the point in the distance. We could see the buildings of the backpackers and the defunct resort in the next bay. On learning that there was a café/bar there Peter and I promised ourselves a morning walk and coffee tomorrow.

Global Warming or normal coastal erosion???

This walk took us through the open bushland, over the range, affording beautiful views over the island and down through the derelict resort. What a sad state of affairs! Still there seems to be talk of a complete rebuild, but who knows. At present the substantial buildings are rapidly becoming part of the weedy bushland surrounding them. We saw a handful of day trippers and backpackers at the other end of the beach where there were a couple of small shops and our destination, the bar/coffee shop. The coffee was good and the setting overlooking the beach delightful.

Later in the afternoon we took Lily onto the beach in Second Bay to explore there. Rick, Val and Tiger again joined us for a companionable walk along the beach. One old dead tree had a huge Osprey nest in it and the bird was standing guard nearby. People have set up a cosy drinking area under the Sheoaks complete with chairs, tables, basic cooking utensils, even a patch of fake green lawn and other paraphernalia associated with BBQs or pre-dinner drinks. Some people were enjoying the facility and we stopped and talked for a while. There is a very nice looking private house in the corner of the bay which is lived in and well maintained.

 

Tige goes exploring

After a week on the water we felt the pull of Rosslyn Bay Marina and all the facilities there so we packed up and had a lovely broad reach sail over to the mainland about 9nm away. Our sailing this year has been mostly dead downwind and this is not necessarily very comfortable as we roll across a lumpy ocean threatening to jibe at any moment. Peter puts on a preventer to stop the main sail accidently jibing, which is safer, but it does not make things more comfortable.

Rosslyn Bay Marina 5th - 6th June

We are now in Rosslyn Bay cleaning up and this morning going to Yeppoon in the courtesy car to do the shopping. You can book the car for two hours and then need to get moving so that the shopping can be done in time for the next person's turn. There is a very nice restaurant overlooking the marina here, set amongst cool, green gardens. It is a lovely spot for a meal or drinks. We were both impressed with Yeppoon set amongst the hills and along the bay.

Our next week, maybe two, will be spent between Rosslyn Bay and the south Whitsunday Islands. There are few settlements along this stretch of coast and we believe reception for phones etc is probably going to be poor. However there are some very protected anchorages and many people, even in this marina, are on their way to the Whitsundays so we won't be lonely. Along the way we intend to visit Port Clinton (name only - no-one lives there), Pearl Bay, Island Head Creek, Percy Islands, Scawfell Island or Mackay if the stores run out. After that who knows!!

Rene tucked up in Rosslyn Bay Marina

Pancake Creek 30th May - 1st June

The 67nm trip to Pancake Creek began at 4am from Port Bundaberg Marina and after some rolly, downwind sailing and motoring we arrived just before dark at the entrance to the creek. During the late afternoon the black bank of cloud behind us caught up and we found ourselves pulling down the main sail in the pouring rain and diminishing daylight. We decided to anchor in the outer creek for the night as the tide was going out and the channel into the inner creek, although lit, is lined with rocky outcrops and sandbanks. The wind was light and in the SE so we had a comfortable night there. In the morning we decided to relocate to the inner creek where we tucked in with several other boats for a quiet two days.

This is a secure, pretty anchorage. We spent the time exploring the sandy beaches and sandbanks in the middle of the inlet. We also took an overgrown, bushy, walk track from the anchorage, 2.6km up the hill to the Bustard Head lighthouse. The view up there would have been wonderful except that it was threatening to rain again so visibility was poor. Near the lighthouse is a little cemetery and it was interesting to see that several of the deceased were there because they had drowned in or around Pancake Creek.

On our second night in the creek we met up with Tom and Nancy from Go Back (Catalina) and Phil and Sally from Amaris (Roberts built by Phil and Sally) on the sandbank in the middle of the inlet for sundowners. I thought this was a strange venue at first, but realised later that there were no mozzies or sandflies there. We have found that since the Great Sandy Strait we have been constantly besieged by biting bugs and they were certainly present on the shore nearby.

 

The Anchorage Pancake Creek

 

I thought this poor little tree perfectly illustrated the saying - 'When the going gets tough, the tough get going.'

Master Hunter Gatherer

 During the afternoon Peter took himself off for a walk on the sandbanks. He had just begun exploring the shallow pools when he spotted dinner in the form of a huge mud crab. He quickly bolted back to the dinghy and grabbed the bucket. Being the true hunter he followed his footsteps back to the spot just in time to see the crab, still in the same spot, but almost buried in the sand. There was no fooling our intrepid gatherer and he scooped up the unlucky creature with his bare hands. No crab pot required!

 

 

Hummocky Island  2nd May

 The weather forecast promised good sailing so we decided to make the break for Hummocky Island. As left we saw our friends Rick, Val and Tiger on Arkaydes anchored in the outer creek. Not long afterwards they overtook us and we caught up with them later in the day anchored at Hummocky Island. This is a small, high island with a beautiful little beach in the northern bay. The beach is the only place accessible for walking, the island being too rocky, bushy, steep and rugged for walking elsewhere. The wind was light and the swell low so the anchorage was reasonably comfortable for the night, but this is not the place to spend the night in less than quiet conditions as the swell curls around the headland and enters the bay.

Crossing the Tropic of  Capricorn