Robe 8th & 9th May

We had a fast trip to Robe after a bumpy voyage through Backstairs Passage. Thank goodness we headed the local info about going through with the tide. At 2.30am we hove to about eight miles from Robe as it was windy, very dark with no moon and plenty of obstacles in our path in the form of limestone outcrops. This is not called the Limestone Coast for nothing. Entered the marina at 9am under escort from a local recreational fisherman. He must have decided we needed a little help, which in fact was great as the entrance was difficult to spot from the bay. We tied up on the end of the fuel jetty and were directed to the council building nearby to book in and be allocated a pen for the next two nights. This is a lovely marina, very protected, but care is needed as there are some very shallow patches that are not dredged. We found this out because at one stage we came to a standstill and when I looked over the side it was obvious that Peter had grounded us. Luckily it was soft mud and a quick rev of the engine fixed the problem.

The council receptionist was very friendly and helpful and we were soon allocated our berth close to the yacht club and showers. Our pen cost us $44 for the first night and $22 each night thereafter. After one of the best showers I've had we walked down town looking for brunch. The Union Café proved to be excellent and Peter had a huge steak burger, chips and salad and I had a chicken wrap with all the trimmings. YUM! We felt much better after that. Next job was the laundry, which we found at the local caravan park about 2kms up the beach. At least it was a nice walk.

Today we started with a boat clean up and Peter refuelled and topped up the water,
then it was time for the touristy bit. We spotted a walk track around Point Dombey, which started near our marina, and followed it along the rocky cliffs to the Obelisk. The Obelisk was a pyramid type structure erected in about 1860 by a local to help ships find the port of Robe in a coast that has few outstanding landmarks to guide them. Many ships were wrecked on this coast in the early days. The sea here has weathered the limestone cliffs into interesting shapes and at one place there were three tunnels through which the sea was pounding.

The town of Robe is a pretty little seaside town of 1500 people. It has many historical buildings and quaint cottages and these are made of limestone. We enjoyed a walk around town looking at the sights.

I have decided that I will become a bit more creative in my cooking while on the boat, partly because it is difficult to cook some of the usual stuff I do and partly because I have decided it's time to branch out into new territory. (We'll see how long this lasts!) Tonight I have cooked Zucchini and Feta Fritters with Tomato Salsa, which I might say were very nice. I have included a photo of my culinary delight especially for you Clive.

Our next stop is Port Macdonnell.

  

Kangaroo Island 1st - 6th May

We had six beautiful days on Kangaroo Island. It had been intended to spend about three days there, but the wind being strong SE for most of the time meant that it was difficult to head SE to Robe, our next destination. It turned out to be a wonderful bonus as there is so much to see on the island. Our introduction came after we had anchored just north of the Kingscote jetty amongst fishing boats and one other yacht. The dinghy was blown up and we were off to town for showers and lunch. On shore we met John, a long time local, who advised us to move to Bay of Shoals to a mooring he organised for us, because the wind was going to make the Kingscote anchorage very rough. John, Peter and I met again at the bakery buying pies for lunch so we sat on the lawn overlooking the bay, ate lunch together and found out that John was a farmer amongst other things.

That afternoon we motored around to Bay of Shoals where we spent five nights. It was very protected from the choppy seas as this anchorage is behind a point with a long spit of sand jutting out. There are steep hills around the bay and from our mooring we could see a picturesque vineyard and an old cottage on the hill top. This turned out to be the residence of Greg and Leisha's friends Ben and Abbi. Ben's father owns the Bay of Shoals winery and we went and made ourselves known to them. We also taste tested some of the wines and bought ourselves several bottles of very nice
shiraz.

Abbi and Ben made us feel very welcome and supplied us with showers, a delightful meal and a tour of the very scenic north coast of the island. Thank you Abbi and Ben. We will always have fond memories of your historic stone cottage on the hill and Kangaroo Island.

On Friday we hired a car for the day and took ourselves for a drive from the eastern end of the island at Penneshaw to the western end and the Flinders Chase National Park. Penneshaw is where the ferry plies its trade to the mainland and back. We also saw Ben and Abbi's yacht there in a small marina at Xmas Cove. After morning tea we felt the need of a bit of exercise and climbed the very steep Prospect Hill for a wonderful view of the American River area. We then drove down the island to the Flinders Chase NP and visited the Remarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch where there was a huge colony of seals. The rocks were indeed remarkable, great boulders of granite that had been hollowed out into weird shapes over millennia.

Later we caught up with John again at the boat ramp in Bay of Shoals and he invited us to a BBQ on Sunday at American River along with his friend Mike, who had his yacht in the bay. Mike, also a long term resident of KI drove us to the BBQ and gave us a tour of this area.  There we met Greg and Trudie and John's wife Jenny. We had a great time and really felt like we were made very welcome. Thank you John, Jenny, Mike, Greg and Trudie.

A favourable weather forecast for the 7th April saw us anchored off Kingscote ready for a two o'clock start for Robe. This was necessary as the current in the Backstairs Passage is such that going through on a ebb tide with the current was sensible. We said a last goodbye to beautiful Kangaroo Island at 1.40am as Peter read his watch wrong and cheated us of twenty minutes sleep.

Max Mariner (Also known as Mad Max)

Max has been invaluable on our trip across the Bight. He is an Aries wind vane. His previous owner gave him to Peter’s brother Clive, who then passed him on to us for our trip. Clive had the paddle and coupling rebuilt and Peter made some new vanes and renewed the ropes and tiller connections. A robust aluminium frame was commissioned for attaching Max to the stern of Rene. After much tweaking and tuning we have got him working well. It took Peter many trials to work out the vagaries of a wind vane self-steering system, but is now confident that he has mastered the settings. Max is a great helmsman as he makes little noise and uses no power from the battery. He tends to wander a bit, occasionally decides to disobey and take off on his own tangent (hence Mad Max) but generally does a good job. Max loves upwind work, especially in a good breeze.

 

Harry Helmsman

Harry is our Raymarine ST 4000+ electronic auto-helm. He is much more accurate than Max, but of course uses battery power. We use Harry when inshore and more precise movements are required or the wind is so light that Max does not work properly. These three pieces of equipment are an essential part of our trip so we decided to give them names.

 

Crossing the Bight has been uneventful thanks to Peter for the preparation, me able crew member and Rene our very seaworthy yacht. Our motto comes from a small plaque on Rene’s    which says, ‘Grab a chance and you won’t be sorry for a might have been.’ I’m glad we have grabbed our chance.

 

Lily and the Two Dunkings

I guess it’s time to introduce our other indispensable ‘crew members’. Lily is our 2.6m inflatable dinghy. She has a 4hp Evinrude outboard motor. Lily has served us well exploring much of the Abrolhos Islands when we lived in Geraldton. Sometimes, however, she can be hard to handle when conditions are right for letting us know we are not always in charge.  On Middle Island the surge running up the beach was problematic as it seems to be along much of the south coast. We observed for a while and decided that the best place to go ashore was in the south western corner. All plans are made with the best intentions, but on approach to the shore we decided it would be better if I jumped out and ran up the beach with the haversack to keep camera equipment etc dry. Peter was to grab the bow and hold it into the surge (real waves) until I came back to help him pull Lily up the beach. Well of course it happened. One particularly large surge rolled up the beach and Lily ran straight over Peter giving him a good dunking.

On the way back we watched the surge and thought we detected periods where it quietened a little. Taking our opportunity we launched Lily, me holding the dinghy into the waves while Peter started the motor. I was supposed to leap on board as the motor started. Luckily I decided that it was best to undertake this operation in my underwear and not risk any more wet clothes. The next thing a huge surge sucked the lot of us out as it gathered momentum for its inward rush. Peter yelled ‘Hold the boat!’ That would have been OK if I could touch the ground. The beach shelved steeply and holding a surfing dinghy while my toes clawed at the soft sand almost out of my depth is not possible. After a fair amount of yelling and swearing Lily was launched and with the motor under full throttle we slowly pulled away from the shore with me half in hanging onto one of the pontoons.

Lily usually behaves herself and serves her purpose well. She tows beautifully between anchorages on a short painter, tucked in on Rene’s starboard side with the bow near the cockpit. The Aries wind vane and exhaust fumes preclude her from going behind. Also we find she tends to nose dive when towed out the back.

 

 

The Bight

On the 26^th April we departed the beautiful Middle Island at 6.30am in a brisk northerly breeze of about 15 knots. During the night the wind had gradually built in strength and the anchorage became bouncy. Peter says, ‘It is to be noted that the Rocna held us tight.’ It was good to get out of there after a fitful night’s sleep being on a lee-shore and the worries that come with that position.

The northerly kept us moving at 5 – 6 knots all day and built in the evening so we put a reef in the main as evening approached. The sea became very lumpy and as the sea and swell were opposite each other, quite uncomfortable. We both had queasy periods. As the night progressed we rolled in more headsail and generally had an uncomfortable night and were glad to see the morning. That was our initiation and was also the worst sailing conditions that we had for the whole trip.

From the 27h to the 30^th April the wind was very light, even with the passage of a weak cold front, which brought in SW winds for a short time. Mostly the light winds had E in them so the trip was slow and we used the motor a lot.

The only sea life we saw was a pod of Pilot Whales. (at least we think they were being too big for dolphins and too small for other whales) We have seen Mutton Birds and Albatross gliding the waves looking for lunch. They are both graceful fliers and watching them is seeing perfection in flight. As for human life the Bight has very little. One ship passed us on the second night but it was so far away that it was only a pinprick of light. The AIS picked up several other ships, but they were too far away to see. However thousands of people came and went every day as we were directly under one of the flight paths between east and west and it was amazing how many flights passed on that route.

Southern Ocean Swell

I should mention the swell – huge. I am very glad our trip was relatively windless because I would not want to witness these monsters in an angry mood. The most awe inspiring was when the boat was on the top of one swell looking down the metal grey trough and up to the next one rolling through. Mostly it is best not to look or think about the predicted cold front.

Land Ahoy

Oh excitement plus! It is the 30^th April and this morning we finally saw the tip of the Eyre Peninsular, a mere shadow on the horizon. After half an hour of indecision on my part and scepticism on Peter’s it was established that it was actually land. This morning we saw an albatross scratching its ear in flight and it must have been very itchy as it kept up the scratching for ages. Two exciting events in one morning!

Middle Island 23/04/13

Had some wind at last and managed to sail for a good four hours on the 30 mile leg from the Duke to Middle Island. There are some huge rocks just under the sea around here and the waves rear up into huge breakers and a mass of white water just to keep the navigator on his toes. They were awesome to watch.  Anchored in the corner of Goose Island Bay (appropriate name don’t you think Greg?) near the Pink Lake which is one of the designated anchorages at Middle Island and of course the light wind came in from the north. We had been told that this island is good in all weather, but a northerly. Luckily it was light. We spent the morning walking along the beach and over the huge sheets of granite rock which makes up this island. There were some amazingly fast little stripey lizards which flashed in all directions as we walked over the rocks. Now I know where the best Cushion Bushes come from. They have been sculpted by the salt laden winds of the Southern Ocean on Middle Island and they are just like a tough mounded cushion. We explored Goose Island Bay in the dinghy and are now about to partake in ‘Beer O’clock’ out on the deck. Tomorrow - The Bight.

Duke of Orleans Bay 23/04/13

Made it just in time as the sun was going down and the mozzies were on the prowl. Out with the coils! After a good night’s sleep, were in bed at 8pm. We readied the inflatable and drove over to the caravan park. For those who love their caravans or camping this has to be a number one spot – treed sites with plenty of lawn, friendly manager and lovely location. Had our last fresh water shower for a while, an ice-cream, a coffee and bought some diesel and we were off back to the boat to prepare for the trip to Middle Is.

Liz joins Rene in Eperance

I left Albany at 8.15 am on 20-4-13 and drove to Esperance in drizzle and at times heavy showers. Arrived there at lunch time and Greg and Mike were ready to leave Peter and Rene and drive our car back home. Settled in then did a quick stocktake of the stores on board and found that we didn’t need much as Greg and Mike had brought plenty of food with them. That evening had dinner with the friendly people at the Esperance Bay Yacht Club.

Next day Geoff (my brother) came and picked us up and we went for a drive out to Cape Le Grand National Park. That wet our appetite for things to come. What a dramatic landscape that is.  Huge granite hills, weathered and stark, interspersed with coastal heath and pretty blue bays with the whitest beaches. On the way back we stopped at the Esperance Stonehenge which is a replica of the real one in England as it would have looked around 1950BC. The statistics for the weight of the stones are incredible, eg some of the Trilithon stones weigh in at between 38 and 50 tonne and the lintels 18 tonne. How did they make that original one? The day ended with a roast lamb dinner at Geoff and Darlene’s.

Stage 2 - Esperance to Kangaroo Island 2013

Monday 22nd April around 0900 hrs Liz and I plan to sail to Lucky Bay for one night, Duke of Orleans Bay for night two, then Middle Island for possibly two nights.  After Middle Island the next landfall will be Kangaroo Island, with the potential of calling into Coffin Bay SA if the weather dictates. 

At present we are well accommodated by the EBYC, who provide us with a marina pen, hot showers and toilet for the very reasonable rate of $20 per day. 

The next blog update will be when we reach Kangaroo Island.

Esperance Bay Yacht Club

We sailed the 15 nm to the EBYC in 10-15 knots NW wind (the first time the wind became favourable!!!!) and received a warm welcome from Kevin at the Club marina.

This will give us a chance to re-supply with water and fuel and swap my present crew of Gerg and Mike, with my wife, Liz.  The next stage will be the Bight and mobile coverage will not be available until we get to Kangaroo Island in South Australia. 

Investigator Island to Butty Harbour

We left Investigator Island after a big cook up breakfast (not much reason to stay) in a light ENE breeze and again decided to motor sail to Butty Harbour in order to arrive there before dark. 

Butty Harbour was a delightful surprise, a U shaped bay providing good protection from east to northwest winds, crystal clear water and excellent holding.  The Dinghy was unfolded and we explored the sand hills and beach to the east of the anchorage.  The following day we made the decision to stay another night and walk to Butty Head.  This spot was another highlight of our sail to Esperance. 

 

 

 

Bremer Bay to Investigator Island

Leaving Little Boat Harbour, we motored around to Bremer Bay and had lunch at the river mouth just outside the town.  White sand and crystal clear water with good holding would summarize this spot, however strong easterlies may make it uncomfortable for an overnight stay. 

After lunch at 1300 hrs we headed off motor sailing for Investigator Island in a very light ESE breeze.  These conditions stayed with us all night and 15 hours later and quite a few litres of diesel, we hove to 3 nm off the Island to await daylight.

Investigator Island consists of two very large rocks joined by a rocky saddle, forming a U shaped bay facing south.  The holding is excellent, but the anchorage is 15 to 20 meters deep and providse a challenge when pulling up a 15 kg Rocna on the end of 20 m of chain.  An electric anchor winch is beginning to sound inviting.

Dillon Bay Little Boat Harbour - day four

A long day sailing in drizzly cool conditions and yes, the bloody wind was in the east!!!!  We anchored in the usual weed bank in possibly the most picturesque bay so far, crystal clear water, white sand and very green vegetation.  All this was just west of Bremer Bay and about half way to Esperance. 

So far we have not seen another yacht on route or in any of the anchorages and only one commercial fishing vessel.  Considering how beautiful the anchorages and coast line are, this is a bit surprising - maybe its the easterlies.

Cape Riche - day three

Another day beating into easterlies. all but very light, but again rewarded with a great place to drop anchor on the northwest corned of Cheyne Island.  Again we had to anchor in a seaweed bank and again the Rocna held tight. 

We walked to the summit of the Island in cloudy showery conditions, but the temperature was surprisingly warm and a "quick" swim off the boat made up for no shower on the boat. 

Having completed three days coast hopping, we are all becoming settled into the boat routine and the pre-prepared meals made by Carmen and Liz have been most appreciated - well heated up by Greg and Michael. 

Cape R

Cheyne Beach - day two

Only a short day today, arrived at the Cheyne Beach anchorage at 1100 hrs, dropped anchor in a mat of ribbon weed, and watched the herring fishermen load their catch into crates and truck to market. 

Another day of easterlies and lumpy seas, but rewarded with a great anchorage and near perfect scenery.  I'm becoming very impressed with the Rocna Anchor and its ability to hold in thick ribbon weed, showing no sign of dragging even  with the motor in reverse - can be difficult to break out when leaving. 

Two Peoples Bay - day one

Left Albany at 0830 hrs in the rain with a stiff easterly and tacked our way out of the Sound, reefed down the main and rolled in some of the headsail as we passed Breaksea Island to starboard.  The wind gods had decided to see if we were dinkum.  Arrived at Two peoples Bay at 1500 hrs and dropped the anchor in 3 m of water.  Sat back with a cold beer and admired the picturesque scenery as the wind died completely out. 

All ready to go.

Ready to leave on 10th April

The wind vane steering system is now better understood and works well, even down wind, the new main and headsail have been fitted and trimmed up, fuel and water loaded and all owner manuals for AIS, Chart Plotter and Standard Horizon VHF have been read through and more importantly, understood.