Coffs Harbour to the Clarence River 28th - 30th April

We walked into Coffs town centre on Monday morning. It was a pleasant walk along the river and around the shops. I spied a Kathmandu shop and some really nice red Teva sandals for walking - my birthday present. It rained on the way back to the harbour, but our trusty umbrellas sheltered us from the worst of it.

Once back Peter, Alan (Camelot) and the man from Wind Wanderer spent the rest of the afternoon contemplating weather, tides and swell conditions and whether we should make the move north to Yamba. In the end we all left just after 6am on Tuesday morning and motor sailed in very light NE winds all the way to the Clarence River and the towns of Yamba and Iluka. At 54nm it took most of the day and we entered a rolly river bar at 5pm just in time to anchor at Iluka before nightfall. We took Alan Lucas's ('Cruising the NSW Coast') advice and disregarded the leads over the bar in favour of a passage close to the southern breakwater. This proved good advice as we watched the waves break over the bar beside us. The swell was forecast to be 1.5m and we entered at 3 hours after low tide as recommended. Iluka is a comfortable harbour within the Clarence River where a long rock wall separates the main river from this quiet haven, there being only two small entrances in.

Rene and friends, Arkaydes and Roseanne at Iluka

This morning we walked around Iluka to sus things out. The caravan park will let us have showers at $5 each and also use the washing machines and dryers at the going rate. We finally found the small town centre and had a luscious salad sandwich at the bakery. There is also a butcher, PO, chemist, service stations, small hardware store, some clothes shops and a brand new IGA supermarket. You can get most things here without going over to the other side to Yamba. We will however take Lily over at some stage. We have been advised to go with one of the others in their dinghy as it is quite a long way and for our safety (strong tides etc) we have organised to go with Joan and Alan from Camelot. I can see we will be at least a week here - so much to see and do.

 

Liz goes shopping Iluka

 

 

 

Peter berthing the dinghy



Camden Haven 22nd - 24th April

 

The leads line up beautifully on entry to Camden Haven River

After a short 13nm motor sail we arrived at Camden Haven River in time for an uneventful entry across the bar and into the river. Rene has enough power to plough through the fast flowing tide and Peter attributes this to her three bladed fixed prop along with 18hp Volvo motor. It was about 2nm to the Laurieton anchorage and care following the marker buoys is essential as the channel changes and it was a little different to our chart plotter version. What a delightful anchorage! The current is not as strong as at Forster and there is much more room. We decided to anchor rather that use the free visitor jetty, just a preference we have. Boats can tie up free of charge for five days and anchored or on the jetty, a visit to the United Services Club nearby to sign in as temporary members, entitles you to a key to the toilet and shower. A short walk up the street and the town centre has supermarkets, hardware store, banks etc. We found this a very quiet, convenient place to stop for a couple of days. It is also very picturesque with North Brother mountain looming behind the town.

 



 

Walking to North Haven

Walk tracks abound. Peter and I walked out along the northern breakwater to have a closer look at the channel and bar entry. Just a few days ago a man lost his life trying to cross this bar in an open tinny when the coast was experiencing the 4m swells which caused us some bother in Port Stephens. Apparently he got cold feet at the last moment, tried to turn back and the boat was caught side on and swamped by a wave. He then tried to swim to the breakwater wall and was drowned in front of the many people fishing and walking who were unable to help. Makes you wonder what he was thinking.

On the visitor jetty were two other yachts. One a catamaran with Rick and Val on board from Pittwater and on a beautiful Adams 46 Cruiser was Ron from Tasmania. We enjoyed their company and had sundowners on board both nights.

Sunrise over Laurieton anchorage

 



The Story Of The Pretty Pink Thongs
(OS readers, I'm talking flip flops, although the other version of thongs would make a much better story.)

After pre-dinner drinks aboard Roseanne, which lasted until well after dark, Rick, Val, Peter and I said our goodbyes collected our footwear and made our way back to our respective craft. Peter stopped for a chat with Ron and then he discovered his $4 thongs were missing. Someone must have nicked them. Firstly he blamed me. 'Liz have you got my thongs?' he shouts. 'No,' I reply. 'You must have he yells!' 'No I haven't. Even in this light I can see these are red!' This went on for a couple more exchanges. Meanwhile I am being eaten alive by every mosquito in Camden Haven who are banqueting on my soft southern skin. 'For goodness sake I say, (with rather a short tone and probably harsher words than this) forget them. We'll go to Coles tomorrow and get another pair.' I was beyond caring. On the way back to Rene in the dinghy we have this conversation about what could have happened to them. Maybe Tiger, Rick and Val's golden cocker spaniel, had a fit of pique at not being allowed on board for drinks with us and chewed them up and spat them in the river. I DON'T CARE!!

Next morning off goes Peter to see if he can track down the missing footwear. Surprise! Surprise! There on the jetty is a lovely pair of pink Crocs just waiting for their owner to claim them. Val!! Rick and Val were by now half way to Coffs Harbour, having left at four o'clock that morning.
So now Peter has pretty pink thongs to wear to the shower and he is quite proud of them. Says they are most comfortable.

The next day, as we were leaving Camden Haven, Peter received a phone call from Val. 'Have you seen my pink Crocs? Favourites! The most comfortable thongs I have ever had.' Arrangements were made to catch up with them at Yamba where they will be staying for a while and ceremoniously take possession of the correct footwear and apologise to the innocent Tiger.


Camden Haven to Coffs Harbour 25th - 26th April

We had to get up early to catch the best tide for our exit north. The bar was glassy and the tide just beginning to ebb as we crossed the bar. Looking south we could see huge build ups of thunder clouds, but the weather forecast was still for light southerlies and sounded good for our sail to Trial Bay. It was a good sail with more breeze than anticipated. This was probably a good thing as the East Australian Current often flows strongly south on this part of the coast and although the wind against current tossed up some sharp seas, we still made fairly good time. We reached Trial Bay just on dark, anchored, cooked dinner and contemplated the wisdom of stopping the night as opposed to sailing on to Coffs. The forecast for Saturday was for light northerlies. With wind and current against us we decided to sleep until midnight, then set off to Coffs before the predicted northerly set in. We arrived in Coffs at 7.30am, having motored the whole way in glassy conditions.

It is now lunch time and I am starving so it's time to finish this for now. We are docked in the marina, on the end of B finger with a huge catamaran that is owned by some people from Perth. Our starting battery died during this trip and Peter has already purchased a new one and fitted it, so all is well with us. Now for two days or so of exploring Coffs Harbour. Our next destination will be the Clarence River, Yamba and Illuka. I've looked forward to spending a week or two in there for a long time.



 

Rene and Camelot in Coffs Marina

Coffs Harbour 27th April

Last evening we had pre-dinner drinks with Joan and Alan, from Perth, on their catamaran 'Camelot.' They are also exploring Coffs for the time being until weather conditions improve for the trip to Yamba. Alan has purchased a folding bicycle for $175 which he is 'maranising'. That means he is taking off all the steel parts, mud guards etc in the hope that it will last longer. It has an aluminium frame and he is pleased with his purchase. I'd like a bike like that, but lack of space consigns Peter and I to legs or bus.

We all visited the Sunday market set up not far from the marina. Peter and I bought some avocados. We only have a whole tree of them back home! The usual trinkets and beads stalls dominated, but there were also some interesting home produce and fresh fruit and vege stalls. A walk along the beach filled the morning and now Blog and reading will complete a lovely, relaxing day. Pre-dinner drinks will be on Rene this evening.
 

20th - 21st April Forster/Tuncurry to Crowdy Harbour

Yesterday we spent the morning exploring Forster. This seems to be the most popular side of the estuary and certainly is very scenic. It took a while to locate a suitable spot to leave Lily (dinghy) where there were no sharp oyster encrusted rocks, people fishing or boating and with a place to padlock her to. We have heard a few tales of stolen gear, usual thing. Finally we found a tiny rocky beach with a purpose built padlock tree where we left her to go for a walk. What a superb day. Being Easter Sunday and such gorgeous weather people were out on the water by the thousands participating in every water activity imaginable. It was lovely just walking along the waterfront watching the people.

On the way back to Rene we took the scenic route and eventually wound our way back to the anchorage via the northern bank and Tuncurry. The current was really racing by this stage and we had lunch watching a man ferry his entire family (about 6) across to a sandbank out in the waterway in a kayak. Didn't appear to have lifejackets either. We walked around Tuncurry in the afternoon before retiring to Rene for sundowners. 

This morning we were up early and ready to negotiate the bumpy channel again. It looked, shall we say interesting, as the water lumped up when the outgoing tide met the ocean which by then was beginning to turn to come back in. Maybe we left it a little late. However it wasn't scary or dangerous, just a little uncomfortable as Rene shipped a wave or two over the bow. Light winds accompanied us on our sail to Crowdy Heads Boat Harbour some 24nm north. As we neared our destination Peter spoke to Crowdy/Harrington Marine Rescue on VHF and gleaned some useful local knowledge about depths in the harbour and where to tie up.

Crowdy is an all weather harbour built as a refuge for the fishermen when foul weather prevented entry across the bars at the other ports in the area. It is tiny and has three jetties. The visitors jetty is no longer able to be accessed as it is closed to boating and fast becoming derelict. The fishermen's jetty only had four small trawlers moored alongside and many empty pens. In recent years industry regulation has meant that the small boats and licences have been brought out by larger vessels operating from Coffs Harbour and Forster. This little harbour with its abandoned fishermen's co-op appears to be getting little use nowadays. We tied up to the unloading jetty and spoke to some locals nearby and were told it was fine to tie up there. No-one would be using it. Peter filled the water tanks as we found a convenient tap nearby.

Locals, Jack and Kate, drove us the 6kms to Harrington for lunch at the pub. We were starving! After a huge lunch we walked back along the beach to Crowdy Harbour. At least I felt like I'd earned lunch. Now the mozzie coils are out as for the first time since Esperance, the mozzies have found us. Tomorrow, weather permitting, we will have a go at crossing the bar into Camden Haven River and Laurieton 13 nm north of Crowdy.

2014 A NEW SAILING SEASON

17th & 18th April Lake Macquarie to Port Stevens

Our new sailing season begins! Peter has been working hard on autumn cleaning Rene, antifouling her hull, checking all systems and sailing south for two weeks to Broken Bay with his mate Bob. They apparently had a good time. Marmong Point Marina boat yard turned out to be very good place to haul Rene out and work on the yearly maintenance.

Peter met me in Sydney, at Circular Quay, and we spent two days with Greg and Leisha and our beautiful little five month old granddaughter. She is delightful. Thanks for having us Greg and Leisha.

Jessica Abigail Scott

The two and a half hour train ride to Lake Macquarie set me up for our new sailing season. It is a lovely ride with the scenic beauty of the northern area of Sydney sliding past. No electronic gizmos for me with so much to see. We went straight to Coles for our reprovisioning, dumped everything on the boat and then set off for dinner at Roger and Carols. The evening was spent catching up on news and Roger cooked a delicious roast. Thanks Roger and Carol for everything you have done for us. Our sojourn on the lake has been wonderful and something we will always remember with pleasure.

At 7.30am we pulled the anchor and made our way over to the Swansea Channel to await the 9am opening of the bridge. We arrived 40 mins early and were luckily first there so hooked onto one of the two moorings until opening time. By the time the bridge opened there were about a dozen other craft waiting to steam through, mostly big 'stink' boats. They quickly left us behind with two other sailing yachts putting out of the channel. Once out we set sail for Port Stevens. The day was gorgeous. A perfect day for my first sail of the season. Even so I felt a little queasy now and again and could not go below much, so Peter was on sandwich duty. I could not help marvelling at the superb day that nature turned on for us - a steel blue sea sparkling with silver sequins under a cloudless autumn sky. Unfortunately little wind accompanied us and we motor sailed the whole way then we entered Port Stevens at 4.30pm, just in time to settle down for our first sundowner.

19th April Port Stevens to Tuncurry/Forster

Over night a big swell built up along the east coast and began affecting Shoal Bay, where we were anchored. Swells rolling around Tomaree Head began to invade our anchorage and Rene held by the current, started to roll 'like a pig in shit', quote Peter. We looked out into the dark and noticed breaking waves just behind us and roaring surf across the Entrance Shoal. What an uncomfortable night. Most of the other dozen or so visitors pulled anchor, and left at first light, probably with little sleep, like us. Shoal Bay is not pleasant in a 2.7m SE swell. I'd advise sailors to make way further in to Salamander Bay or Fame Cove in these conditions for a better nights sleep.

By morning the surf seemed to be even higher so we decided to leave for an overnight sail to Coffs Harbour or a shorter sail to one of the navigable harbours along the way. A 10kn SW breeze was forecast so there was no excuse to stay. We decided to exit Port Stevens via the southern part of the channel near Tomaree Head. Breaking surf crashing on the entrance shoal came surprisingly close as we motored out and even the little shallow patches produced breakers occasionally. Finally past all the white water we set a course south of the Broughton Islands then headed north east for a destination not yet decided.

The swell gradually fell during the day and as late afternoon approached we thought that calling in to Cape Hawke Harbour might be a good idea. Peter contacted the Forster Marine Rescue and they told us that the bar was behaving well, but to slow down and wait for the ebb tide to change. The bar is deep and we had no trouble motoring over, but the current is certainly swift here. We motored between the rock walls lined with sightseers  and fishermen, in a swirling, heaving mass of water escaping to the freedom of the ocean. Our motor was up to the task and a short time later we were anchored just inland from the Fishermen's Co-op in flat, fast running water. The anchor is stuck tight and this morning we are set to explore the towns of Tuncurry/Forster.

 

Anchorage, upstream from Fishermen's Co-op

 

 



A perfect day in Foster