Lake Macquarie 22nd to 25th August

After breakfast at Roger and Carols we opted for a tour of Toronto town and morning coffee at one of their favourite haunts. We discussed options for staying out as the weather forecast was for two more westerly, strong wind warning days. Somewhere along the way we all decided it was a good idea for Peter and I to join the Royal Motor Yacht Club of Toronto. It is quick and simple to join and very reasonable at $80 for a full boating membership and $15 for an associate membership. This also means we can use the facilities (toilets, showers etc) and have one free night per week tied up to the yacht club jetty where power and water are available. We spent the day ambling around town, doing some unavoidable jobs. One was to sort out medications for the next few months until we got back to Albany. This was done at the friendly Priceline Pharmacy and now we have six months supply and won't need to worry about that until we arrive back home.

While we were looking for Woolies we came across the local council voting station. Peter went in and enquired about absentee voting and lo and behold that was fixed up too. While all this was happening we had the bright idea of finding out about the availability of mooring Rene at Toronto YC over the summer while we go home. There were moorings available and we booked one for six months at $224 per month. This is an inland waterway and we feel sure Rene will be OK while we are away. It is a reasonably straightforward and very cheap process to bus and train to Sydney to see Greg and Leisha's new baby and also to catch the plane home. Another advantage is that the mooring is $700 cheaper than the one in Sydney and we are a little closer to Townsville for next year.

Wangi Workers Club from our anchorage

On Friday we motored down the west side of the lake to Wangi Wangi. Of course there was another strong wind warning so we anchored up in the corner of Wangi Bay right in front of the Worker's Club in 4.0m of water. This position was directly under the shelter of some tall sheoks and although we could see the wind tossing the branches about we were very protected with just a small ruffle breezing across the water. We were able to sign in to the club for the day and use the facilities there. I discovered that a Quilt Show was being held and went for a look. There were some gorgeous quilts Bev and I am starting to get motivated in that direction again.

On Saturday we decided some serious exercise was in order so we set out early and walked the Wangi Peninsular. What a lovely walk, partly on parkland between the houses and the lake and partly in the Lake Macquarie State Conservation area. By the time we arrived back at the Wangi shopping area it was well past coffee time. There is a very lovely caravan park on the peninsular called The Wangi Holiday and Camping Area for those of you who are interested. Lots of beautiful tall gum trees and grass on a hill overlooking the western bays and side of Lake Macquarie. Some people had one of the open fires going, cooking breakfast and Peter and I nearly gate-crashed.

 

 

Now it is Sunday and we decided that as the weather is absolutely superb we would motor over to the eastern side of the lake to Belmont. Recently the strongest wind has been from the west so we thought we would take advantage of this quiet time to explore the other side. We are now anchored between the Belmont Public Jetty and the swimming baths in about 3m of water. It is only a short row ashore to all the usual shops including a Bias Marine chandlery where we will no doubt spend some $$. Peter is sitting out on the cockpit seat watching the 16' Skiffs race across the bay. Apparently the World Champions came from the club here so the racing is worth watching. It doesn't get much better than this!!!

 

Orchids on Wangi Peninsular



Off To Lake Macquarie 21st August

Wednesday was the only day this week with a reasonable forecast for us to undertake the journey to Lake Macquarie, 35 nm north of Broken Bay. In fact we ended up covering 53nm as we left from the Royal Motor Yacht Club in the southern end of Pittwater at 6.30am and docked at the Royal Motor Yacht Club Toronto in the northern end of Lake Macquarie at 6.15pm. Roger and Carol O'Dwyer, friends from WA now living at Toronto, were there to meet us and direct us to a berth on the yacht club marina for the night.

The wind at the RMYC marina in the early morning was gusty from the NW and I thought we might have been in for a blow again, but all day the winds eased and were variable from SW to NE and no more than 10 knots at the strongest. We sailed all morning and then after lunch motored for the rest of the day. Just south of Moon Islet at the entrance to Lake Macquarie we noticed  a massive fish feeding frenzy about 1nm out to sea. As we were set to arrive at the Swansea Bar too early we decided to detour and see what was happening. What an amazing sight! We motored right through the school of large fish and they didn't even bother to get out of the way. This was the first visual evidence we've had of huge schools of fish still remaining in the sea.

We arrived at the Swansea Bar not long after low tide and had to circle for an hour and a half before we were confident that there was enough water for Rene to get through. The bar is reasonably protected by the headland and off-lying Moon Islet from the south east swell, but as there was little swell and no wind the depth was our only concern. Two hours after low tide we crossed the bar and followed the channel markers up to the courtesy moorings where we waited for 3/4 hour for 5 o'clock when we had booked the bridge to open. The bridge is operated by Marine Rescue Lake Macquarie and they use a loudspeaker to let you know that the bridge is about to open and to get ready to go through. It was then a matter of following the channel markers across some quite shallow water, 2.3m at lowest, up to the drop over into the lake.

The sun set as we entered the lake and we made our way to Toronto under direction from Roger at the RMYC Toronto. Luckily it was easy to find our way in amongst the moored boats to the jetty where Roger, Carol and a friend helped us dock Rene. We had a wonderful meal at the O'Dwyers, caught up on all the news, discussed the must see places in the lake and were invited to stay the night. I quite like our bed on the boat, we call it The Cocoon. The bed at the O'Dwyers was like a soft, fluffy cloud - lovely! Thanks Roger and Carol. You have made us feel very welcome at Lake Macquarie.

Lake Macquarie - Here We Come! 19th to 21st August

Well not quite! Monday and Tuesday had strong wind warnings forecast so we decided to stay in Pittwater for a couple more days. On Monday we left Patonga early and motored to Coasters Retreat, a lovely, protected bay on the western shores of Pittwater. The NW/SW winds blew strongly as forecast, but we felt secure on our club mooring. Very few people are sailing in this area during the week so taking up a club mooring for the night is not an issue. Coasters Retreat is full of visitor moorings and it was a matter of which one? On Tuesday the wind was just as strong as Monday so Peter rang the Royal Motor Yacht Club of Broken Bay and organised a berth for the night.  Luxury!!

The wind was howling when we arrived, but luckily two men from the marina helped us secure Rene without much fuss. There is not a lot of room in some of these marinas for manoeuvring and the wind complicates things somewhat. We were surrounded by small ships and classy yachts, but I bet none of them had come across The Bight. I was looking forward to roast dinner at the club, however Peter made a mistake with the days and we ended up with fish and chips. Nice though! One advantage of the marina berth was that we could clean Lily and pack her away on the pontoon. Much easier than on the foredeck. We filled up with water, fuel, gas, did the washing and had a shower all ready for an early morning departure on Wednesday, the only decent weather forecast this week.

Tick Magnet 19th August

I'm not sure why, but my ability to attract bush ticks has my unsympathetic family rolling about laughing hysterically at my expense. Peter says he can hear them backstroking across the bay to find me. A portion of Peter and Greg's phone calls always contains quips about the problem. The last tick was picked up on a walk at Towlers Bay in Pittwater. I even sent Peter through the bush first, but they never get on him. Why me? Greg has even suggested I should be put in a bag and dusted!!! Ha, Ha, very funny guys! I have two frivolous tallies going on this trip. One is tick attachments to Liz - 5 at present. The other is how much money I find. Believe me it is not a realistic way to survive. The total since the start of the trip is $11.50. I'll still have to do some relief teaching when I get home.

Here they come!

 

 

It is Monday 19th August and because of a strong wind warning we are staying in this area today. We plan to make the trip to Lake Macquarie tomorrow, weather permitting.

Train Trip to Newcastle & Jobs 17th & 18th August

As we're still at Brooklyn we decided to take advantage of being near the Central Coast Line and take a journey to Newcastle for the day. At the huge cost of $2.50 return each, we set out. Strong winds were forecast so it seemed like a good idea. We must have taken the 'milk run' on the way north as the train stopped at every station and we had to change at Wyong. It took just over two hours to get to Newcastle, but the journey was scenic and having views of countryside instead of water was a change. On arrival we walked along the foreshore where huge amounts of money have been spent on beautifying the area. It was a pleasant walk around to the marina and yacht club, but the wind gradually built until it was almost uncomfortable to continue to walk here. An enquiry at the Yacht Club informed us that it would cost $50 per night to stay. Of course all amenities were on hand. Our trip back to Hawkesbury River was much quicker and took only 1 1/2 hours with a change at Gosford. The landscape around Newcastle was very flat and I realised how lucky I am to have spent so much time in the rivers and bays around Broken Bay.

Lily is left at the public pontoon for the day (locked)

 

Another windy day was forecast for Sunday so we decided to do a few jobs. Took advantage of the cheap laundry facility at Brooklyn Marina (1 load = $7.50 per wash and dry)and purchased ice which they sell in a huge block as this lasts much better than the small ice block variety. After this was done we decided to move back to Patonga Beach as the wind was still in the northern sector. A walk along the beach in the evening finished off a pleasant day.

Bonus Time in Pittwater, Cowan Creek and the Hawkesbury River 13th to 17th August

After the water pump was fixed we decided to stay in this area for a few more days. We studied the maps and found some places we had not yet seen. Tuesday night was spent in beautiful, calm, secluded Refuge Bay close to the waterfall. The trickling sound of water falling over the rocks sent us to sleep that night.

On Wednesday we motored back to Pittwater and into Towlers Bay. This bay is full of private and club moorings and as this is not a busy time of the year no one seems to mind visitors taking up one of the moorings. Most of them are empty. It was very sheltered here from the strong westerly winds blowing outside the bay. Towlers Bay has good walking tracks into the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park

We had explored all of the tracks we could find in Towlers Bay, so on Thursday we motored back into Cowan Creek and took up a National Park mooring off Hallets Beach, which is just south and on the opposite side to the Hawkesbury River entrance. What a gorgeous little beach! The wind had disappeared, the sun was out and as the afternoon wore on Peter and I decided to have our first drinks and nibbles on the beach for this trip. It has been too cold up until this point.

By Friday our larder was becoming boringly bare so the mutual decision was to go back to Brooklyn and do the laundry, have hot showers and go to Woy Woy and do the shopping. It is an easy 15 minute train trip and a short walk each end to the shops and boat. Very convenient!

Wind and Water Pump 12th August

At some stage over the last few weeks we had noticed larger amounts of water appearing in the bilge. Peter investigated in the dark recesses behind the motor and discovered that the water pump was leaking indicating that the seal had gone. He ordered parts on line and had them posted to Greg and Leisha's address. One of the reasons they came up for the weekend was to deliver the parts. Monday was then set aside for repairing the pump. Firstly, this is a Volvo MD7B 3000 series diesel motor and Peter had extraordinary difficulty getting behind the motor and below the exhaust manifold to disconnect the pump for repairs and then replace it afterwards. I heard a few choice words strung together in ways I've not heard before. I don't usually stick around when these jobs are done. However soon you will discover why I had to remain on board on this day. It seemed to take ages to fix and several times nuts and spanners dropped into the bilge under the motor, which resulted in the air turning blue. Eventually everything was put back together and no more leaks.

Once this job was completed, we were just sitting back admiring Peter's handiwork when suddenly a huge gust of wind hit Rene. It had been obvious that the weather was taking a turn for the worse, but the wind was incredibly strong. Gusts whipped over the water flinging spray in the air across the river. We were in a sheltered spot on a mooring in the Hawkesbury River. Goodness knows what it would have been like at sea. The tide was going out, the current strong and we were held side on to the wind, which made things quite uncomfortable as the gusts came through and at one stage heeled Rene to about 20 degrees. During the afternoon the wind remained strong and gusty. Later we heard on the news that hundreds of people requested assistance from SES throughout the Sydney area as trees and power lines came down. Also a 40' catamaran was turned over while sailing on Sydney Harbour. It was reported that the winds were gusting to 100km per hour there.

We had originally thought we would sail to Lake Macquarie this week. It is 35nm north of Broken Bay entrance and an easy days sail. However the weather forecast was for strong winds or winds from the north east (that's where we want to go) so we decided to stay in this area for a few more days until the weather turned more favourable for us.

Adventures With Greg and Leisha 11th August

Greg and Leisha caught the train from Sydney up to Hawkesbury River yesterday. We decided to take them over to Dangar Island, as they had not been there, and we had enjoyed it so much. Again we put Lily on the small beach near the coffee shop and then did the circumnavigation. They were both as impressed as we had been. A cup of coffee and toasted banana bread completed a lovely morning.

As we were preparing ourselves and Lily to go back to Rene a lady from a house nearby started talking to us about this beautiful island. She mentioned that she and her friend were about to go over to the other side of the river to climb up to her favourite waterfall. She invited us along, so of course we took her up on the invitation and off we went. We both tied the dinghies to a rock at the edge and clambered up to a level area above. Helen actually said, 'It's not far, a bit steep at the beginning, but then flattens out.'

Off we went, following Helen and Adrian up an ill defined path, the steepest I have ever been on. It was OK at first, but as we climbed it got steeper and eventually we had to use an old knotted rope to pull ourselves up an almost insurmountable rock. By now I was feeling very uneasy, wishing I had suction pads on my hands and feet, such as those frogs have. Climbing required both hands and feet and looking down from these dizzying heights had me deciding to pull out. Leisha at six months pregnant was happy to go on. I kept wondering what would happen if she slipped. She wasn't at all fazed. I must say now that Helen is 70 years old and went up this ravine like an antelope. After a short break everyone talked me into going on and for a while I tried not to look down as I felt I might fall of the slope at any moment. We had to push through bush and Greg said, 'What about the ticks Mum?' At that point in time I had got past my phobia about ticks. They were the least of my problems. Eventually the path flattened out and soon we stepped down into the rocky creek bed.

The creek and waterfall were a delight. The views from the top amazing - so far up! I imagine in summer this would be a wonderful spot for a swim, but now the water was very cold. I'm glad I conquered my fears and climbed on. It must be said I am a West Aussie and have never climbed anything as scary, steep and high as this. On the way down I carried a stout stick and this was a great help in providing support as I went. I'm even considering buying some "Dork Sticks" much to Greg's horror.

We made our way back to Rene and eventually had a very late lunch.

 

Helen and Adrian

  

A Week in Cowan Creek 5th to 10th August

We have just spent the week in the various bays up Cowan Creek. In WA this would be a river, as even as far as Bobbin Head there was still 8m depth. Empire Marina (Halvorsen's) is at the navigable end of the creek just around the corner from Bobbin Head picnic area, and from here it shallows quickly, but continues on for a few more kilometres before petering out in mangroves. We walked as usual and discovered some interesting and energetic walks. The Sphinx walk was beautiful. It took us on a loop of 6.5km up the range to a 1/8th replica of the Egyptian Sphinx. It had been carved in sandstone by a soldier who had spent time in Egypt during the war, his purpose being as a memorial to his mates.

 

One of the outstanding Bays was Jerusalem Bay, which is quite long and narrow and we discovered a very tiny patch of sand where we could land Lily. The rocks are covered with oysters and as Lily is an inflatable dinghy oysters are bad news for her. This has been one of our enduring problems - finding a place to leave the dinghy safely to go ashore. From here we were able to climb a steep path up to Cowan and find a general store where we had lunch and a rest before retracing our steps back to Jerusalem Bay. On the way we met a couple of ladies (senior) and discovered that one was over from Geraldton. She practises as a vet, but Peter forgot her name so can't help you Judy. I didn't get introduced properly so missed it.

We tied up to a National Park courtesy mooring in a small bay off Jerusalem called Pinta Bay. Steep, forested hills surrounded our bay, and the other side of Jerusalem Bay, locking us into a dark green triangle. It is such a sheltered bay that no wind stirred here and the dark, oily water was completely glassed out. I couldn't help thinking that this would have been exactly how Cook would have seen this bay if he had come here. One thing he would not have heard was the sound of the road trains roaring along the distant Pacific Motorway. It was interesting because the deep valleys funnelled the sound down and somehow made it echo strangely into a really ominous growl.

As evening approached many different birds called as they prepared for the night, crickets chirped and fish splashed. After a while silence fell and I began to find it a little claustrophobic in this dark little bay with the distant growl of the motorway floating down to us. This feeling changed in a moment though when Peter decided to have a go at fishing. As he threw out the line it splashed into the water and we discovered the most amazing phosphorescence we have ever seen. It was so dark, no moon, just our small patch of stars above. We spent ages throwing water over the side and watching our own glittering fireworks show. Everywhere the droplets hit the water hundreds of rings of fluorescent light shimmered in the darkness. We could even see large fish chasing and catching smaller ones. In places where leaves and twigs disturbed the surface sparkles of light flashed like those on the overhead lines as the electric train goes by. All of a sudden our bay turned magic and I forgot the oppressive feeling I had earlier.

We spent three nights at Bobbin Head, an extra one because it rained for a whole day and we were confined to the boat. At Cottage Point we watched as the float plane brought people in for dinner at the local restaurant. Cowan Creek is a must for anyone contemplating this journey - an absolute treasure.

Greg and Leisha Visit 3rd - 5th August

Coffee excursion at Dangar over we left the mooring and circumnavigated the island before motoring back to Patonga Beach to meet Greg and Fine Gold. Fine Gold is Greg and Leisha's (son and daughter-in-law) 27' Vancouver that they sailed back from the UK a couple of years ago. Leisha had other commitments so Greg brought Fine Gold up by himself. We both anchored in front of the Patonga Pub and adjourned for late afternoon drinks before dinner on board Rene. My latest concoction was Chicken with Mushroom and Paprika Sauce - YUM!

On Sunday we heard from Leisha that she was catching the bus and train up for the day. We were to meet her at Pearl Beach for morning tea, which we did and then we all walked back over the range to Patonga Beach for lunch. Spent the afternoon lazing about and then saw Leisha to the bus at 4.10pm for the trip back to Sydney.

Greg had a bank holiday today, Monday, so we waved him off after breakfast and made our way over to America and Refuge Bays. These bays are chocked full of private and club moorings along with a few courtesy moorings and it is easy to understand why. America Bay is surrounded by very steep thickly wooded hills. High sandstone cliffs jutting out of the vegetation render any exploring ashore out of the question. This bay would be totally protected from any adverse weather raging in from any direction. Refuge Bay has a couple of small beaches that invite landing and exploring. On the south side is a high sandstone cliff that has a waterfall spilling over into a small beach stream at the bottom. We grabbed a mooring nearby and sat outside in the sunshine and ate lunch whilst the splash of the waterfall broke the silence.

After lunch we decided to motor over to Brooklyn for the night as we both felt in need of a hot shower. While we were there we bought fuel for the dinghy, washed the clothes and enquired about the possibility of leaving the dinghy there overnight while we went to Sydney to collect a water pump kit that Peter ordered on the internet. The storekeeper thought there would be no problem in accommodating Lily for the night.  Brooklyn Marina is an excellent spot to catch up on the jobs as most of the services are here at the one spot. The only thing Brooklyn doesn't have is a supermarket. Gosford is only a short trip on the train, the station being right next to the marina.

Delightful Dangar Island 3rd August

Dangar Art

 

One of the problems with attaching Rene to a mooring for the night is that often she spends half the night butting up against the float as wind and tide work against each other. Very annoying, in fact drives you mad! We had no such troubles off Brooklyn. The current was so strong here that the rope and mooring were stretched out tight in one direction. At some time during the night I heard the gurgle, bubble, slap of the change of the tide with a sinking heart, but all that happened was that she bumped past the float and then stretched out tight as a drum in the other direction. Peaceful sleep.... 

 

The view from our courtesy mooring this morning takes in an inviting looking island to the north east, Dangar Island. It is quite high and forested and ringed on the lower slopes with houses, jetties and numerous moored craft. We read that there is a coffee shop/general store on the north side near the public wharf and that is an undeniable magnet for Peter. He likes to indulge in a flat white once a day. Off we went, Lily battling the strong current flowing down the Hawkesbury River. There was a small beach near the public jetty so we hauled Lily up the golden sand and decided to walk the island in order to earn our morning coffee.

Getting the shopping home Dangar Island style.

What a beautiful island! There are no cars here. Locals have dinghies that they take to the mainland marina near Brooklyn where there is a dinghy dock. From here they either have a car or can take a train from the nearby Brooklyn station. The streets are marked as usual with street signs, but are much more walker friendly paths circling the island. People here indulge their artistic expression by dressing up the street signs and light poles and adding delightful characters and art to their gardens.
Back at the coffee shop we sat on the waterfront and sipped away as we looked at the beautiful views across the river towards the railway bridge. We decided to look into the possibility of taking a ferry trip up the Hawkesbury as Rene is too tall to go under the bridge.

 

 

Gosford to the Hawkesbury River 2nd & 3rd August

Last night we took up a courtesy mooring in the west side of the Hawkesbury River between the shallows of the mainland and Dangar Island. At some time during the night I was woken by a hideous thrashing machinery noise, my half senseless brain believing we were about to  be run down by a runaway paddle steamer that had not noticed our anchor light. Struggling into consciousness, heart still hammering, I finally realised it was a train rattling along the tracks on it's way south along the Sydney/Newcastle line. Phew!!! The railway runs along the shore against the hills and emerges from a tunnel nearby, and in the stillness of the night it's clamour echoes around the bay and the train appears to be about to crash through the cabin.

Yesterday we steamed slowly back down the tortuous Brisbane Water Channel between the oyster farms, past the mangroves , through The Rip and under the Rip Bridge with it's currents and whirlpools, beside the sandbanks, around Wagstaff Point, with it's protruding rocky reef and around the rock lined shore on the north/east side of Broken Bay - the views in the warm, windless sunshine just stunning.

OH S#!*! Are we going to make it under or not!?

 

 

 

OH YES!!



 

 



At 11.30am we motored by beautiful Patonga Beach and made our way into the wide, dark, slatey/green water of the Hawkesbury River. The purpose of our courtesy mooring is to allow access to the Brooklyn Marina and the shops and cafes associated with it. Here we were able to buy a new bottle of gas and we discovered showers and laundry also available, although that had been taken care of back in Gosford on Fernaux Explorer.

Feeling fresh and clean after our steaming hot shower we sat in the cockpit with nibbles and wine and enjoyed the slow advance of night fall. The evenings are becoming milder.

    

Gosford 30th July to 1st August

Hooray for the twin tub washing machine! In this life there are a few essential appliances and one of them is a method of cleaning clothes. We discovered that our friends from Eden and Bermagui, Helen and Brian and their vessel Fernaux Explorer were tied up at the Gosford Public Wharf. On our first morning there Brian came along the wharf to catch up and one of the first things he offered was the use of the washing machine. Top loaders are no good on boats - too much water. As the laundromat was at a distance that required us to venture forth with a packed lunch and a water bag we gladly accepted their offer. Friday dawned clear and sunny so I took our mammoth pile of dirty washing and lo and behold an hour later Fernaux Explorer was bedecked with lines of clean, sweet smelling clothes flapping in the breeze. Thanks again Brian and Helen for your friendship and generosity.

Two days before we had arrived in Broadwater, Gosford and took up a courtesy mooring just south of the sailing club premises. We rowed Lily ashore to a tiny beach near the yacht club where we abandoned her, after carefully tying her to a rubbish bin pole, to explore Gosford city. One of the first shops we walked past was a barbers. Half an hour later Peter emerged minus his hair. Actually it looked OK, but his suggestion that I go in there was rejected as I was not keen on appearing with a number 2, even where no-one knows me. I made an appointment at the Milk & Honey hairdressers and an hour and a half later - a new me!

The weather forecast for Tuesday evening into Wednesday was for building southerly winds up to 20-25 knots, so we decided to phone the Marine Rescue Central Coast to organise a berth at the Gosford Public Wharf for the next three nights. RMCC manage the wharf for the local council and in the process earn some much needed funds for their organisation. Many of the berths were empty so we had our pick and Dave from RMCC kindly helped us tie up safely. Chris and Roz on a 47' Boro were our neighbours on one side (what a magnificent boat fit out they had done) and a family of mum, dad and three kids living on an old fishing boat were on the other side. Luckily there was a space of about five berths between each of us.

Who needs TV? Not us! We had the best entertainment from the fishing boat family. The boys probably ranged in age from 11 down to 4. Their antics in a very unreliable dinghy at the end of the day kept us entertained. Dad shouting instructions from the mother ship as the boys conked out numerous times and began drifting towards the rock wall was probably an exercise in how not to talk to kids. Hmmmm! The Moscow Circus arrived and set themselves up on a small oval over the street from the wharf and we watched as they set up the Big Top in the rain. The sound and light show in the evening was interesting.