Bermagui 28th to 30th June

We have decided to stay an extra day at Bermagui, partly because another yacht tied up alongside us making four rafted up from the jetty and that meant we were boxed in, and partly because this is the first sunny day for quite a while and we intend to make good use of it. Later we plan to walk to Wallaga Lake some six kms along the coast.

This is quite a crowded little harbour and that means, for the first time, we have had to raft up alongside other boats. We are the third from the jetty, the first a large trawler, the second is a large motor vessel being partly charter boat and the home of Brian and Helen, then there is us and until early this morning an older design wooden yacht out from us. Very cosy! Everyone is very polite and the general etiquette is to walk around the front of the mast and not the back to protect privacy. On the shore adjacent to the harbour is a new two storey building which houses the Fisherman's Co-op, amenities for boaties, several café/bar/restaurants, gift shop etc. The upstairs coffee shop has a lovely outdoor seating area where it is very pleasant to sit admiring the view of the harbour whilst sipping your cuppa.

 

Still has surf across the entrance.

 

 

 

 

After a good night's sleep we awoke on our first morning to be greeted by Brian and Helen (Peter met them previously in East Boyd Bay) and they informed us that they intended to take a bus to Bega for the day. We thought this sounded like a good idea so 9.30am found us lined up at the bus stop with half a dozen other people. Peter flashed his Senior's Card and BINGO $5 bus fare for both of us to Bega, 65 kms drive through some very scenic countryside. What we found out later was that this was a return fare. That's value! Bega doesn't have a lot to recommend it, except more shops than Bermagui, but it was a pleasant interlude and we restocked the larder from Woolies and saw a place we have not seen before. On the way back the bus driver (a very friendly bloke) stopped at a roadside stall and everyone piled out and bought pumpkins. Great day.

Yesterday was gloomy and very overcast, almost thunder stormy looking. We decided to catch up with some domestic chores in the morning and then went for a walk along the beach in the afternoon. Again we heard the Bellbirds in the Spotted Gum forest on the edge of town. They sound so beautiful. Helen had offered us the use of her washing machine and dryer (luxury) so I caught up with the washing. Brian and Helen invited us over for roast dinner that evening and we had a wonderful evening on board Furneaux Explorer. Brian and Peter disappeared upstairs for some time and later I found out that Brian had been showing Peter some of his favourite spots up the coast. Local knowledge is very handy. Thanks Helen and Brian for your hospitality and friendship.

 

Peter with the Spotted Gum 'Octopus'

Today is our last day in Bermagui as there appears to be a good weather window for our next foray north to Bateman's Bay. Apparently the bar at Bateman's Bay is trickier than here so we need a high tide and fair weather to cross it. That means we will have to be up at 2.00am to arrive at approximately midday to catch the high tide in. It will be about 40nm and again there is not much wind forecast so I suppose it will be more motoring. At least our entrance here is absolutely calm now, so there should be little trouble getting out. 

Eden to Bermagui 27th June 36' 25.6" S 150' 04.3" E

East Boyd Bay was a very different scene to the one we left four days ago. The beautiful blue/green water was now Cadbury milk chocolate brown and the remains of the ocean swells rolling through the bay crashed onto the beach in such a way that there was no way we could go ashore. Brown foam had built up along the shore making the beach look like someone had been out with the dirty detergent. The anchorage was comfortable and we had a restful nights sleep and were up early to prepare for the trip to Bermagui some 40nm north of Eden.

 

We have an informative guide book called 'Cruising the New South Wales Coast' by
Alan Lucas which we consult and read carefully before we travel to the next anchorage or port. Also our chart plotter has detailed charts of course and a great feature we have found since beginning this trip. There are little cameras dotted along the shore and at first we thought this meant it was a scenic spot. It turns out that if you click on the camera you get a great a aerial shot of that particular place. Very handy for visualising where you are going. After doing all the homework I was a little concerned that Bermagui has is a river harbour and therefore involves crossing a bar. Lucas and several locals told us it was fine, plenty of water and quite safe. Hmmmm!!!

We spent the day admiring rugged headlands and white sandy bays mostly surrounded by forest and tended to forget the swell that was still 2.5m or so since the wild weather a couple of days ago. The wind all day was again on the nose, NE at about 3kn. We rounded the headland ready to line up the leads into Bermagui Harbour when suddenly Peter and I realised the reality of the entry. Waves were breaking right across the entrance and as by now there was no turning back Peter gunned the motor and in we went through a maelstrom of white water and foam. I did the really brave thing and shot below and didn't look. I thought a screeching crazy woman on deck was not a good look for the numerous photographers on the rock wall photographing the proceedings. Two other runabouts followed us in so I guess it was all in a days fishing for them. What an adrenaline rush! Anyway we arrived in a calm little harbour literally full of boats. We were allocated a space on the Fisherman's Co-op jetty and here we are, enjoying being here safe and sound and sipping a glass of wine.

 

Just south of Bermagui. The bar swell was not quite this big.

   

 

Eden 23rd to 26th June

We have just spent the last four days at Eden, partly sheltering from the weather and partly reprovisioning. The first two nights we tied up to the Eden jetty, which was interesting as there were the biggest tides of the year, so Peter was kept on his toes tweeking the ropes. Once the lines were correctly positioned we found a café for a coffee. As we walked in both of us noticed a gorgeous painting of Eden fishing boats in the harbour. We wanted it - both of us. We rarely like the same paintings. It was decided to think about it and come back tomorrow if we couldn't live without it.
Of course we purchased the painting. Here it is, my 60th birthday present. (Good excuse anyway)

 

 

After two days on the jetty the weather became considerably worse with strong wind warnings and heavy rain predicted for the Eden Coast. The jetty is no place to be in this weather as the surge into the harbour constantly sends boats crashing into the jetty. A decision was made to anchor in the bay just beyond the moored boats along with three other visiting yachts. It was comfortable there, but very wet as it rained without stop for two days. At one stage Peter must have had a bad case of cabin fever as he thought it would be a good idea to go and do the shopping. There was a huge black cloud making its way steadily towards us and I questioned his judgement. I was told firmly and somewhat irritably, I might say, to get in the dinghy. Well guess what. We got soaked just as we were unloading at the jetty. Both of us were totally drenched. I will not mention this episode again!!!

Today the weather is much improved so after motoring over to the jetty and filling up with water, walking up to the town to wash and dry some of our wet gear and purchase a few final stores we left for East Boyd Bay. We will be spending the night there and in the morning will be up early to make the journey to Bermagui, 40nm north of here.

Fashion Statement

It has come to my attention that there are those of you out there who are 'impressed' with my fashion statement of lime green heater socks on the outside of the trackies! Like all up-to-the-minute, good fashion there is method here. I am perhaps a bit phobic about leeches and having been on the East Coast before and been appalled as the hungry, slimy little critters made their wriggly way up my shoes I decided to make things more difficult for them. I don't like being regarded as leech lunch!

Liz and wombat at Refuge Cove,  Wilsons Promontory

   

East Boyd Bay near Eden 21st June 37' 06.5" S 149' 54.4" E

Nine o'clock found us slumbering peacefully in our bunk when all of a sudden I thought I was woken up by Peter asking if there was any muesli on board. It took a couple of seconds to realise that someone was hailing us and asking if anyone was asleep on board. By the time Peter had stumbled out of bed they had gone. During the night a naval ship had docked at the jetty and they must have come to tell us we were not allowed to move until it had loaded and gone. This jetty is where they load explosives on the naval vessels and although you are allowed to stay if already in the bay you are not allowed to move until the ship has gone and the all clear given. We also discovered that we were out in the middle of the bay. During the night it had looked like we were almost on the beach. Distance is very deceptive at night.

Peter rang the Harbour Master at Eden to find out how long we were to be here and also if we could move closer to the shore. That was OK so we motored closer to the beach and settled in for the day. The naval ship wasn't expected to leave until 4.30pm when it is almost dark, so we decided to stay for a second night and spend the day exploring East Boyd Bay. What a bonus! We had a lovely day there. Out came Lily and we stocked up with snacks and water and rowed ashore to have a look around. Behind the beach was a small estuary and being so still the reflections were superb. A track lead over the hill to the next bay so off we went to see what was there.

The bush reminded me of Clackline, same stony, clay ground and although the trees were bigger it looked a lot like that area. After a twenty minute walk we discovered that we were at Kiah Inlet and the historical site of the old Davidson Whaling Station. The National Parks and Wildlife Service had installed paths and signs to explain what had happened here. There was also a weatherboard cottage known as Loch Garra and sheds up on the hill that had been restored. It is such a beautiful place amongst the forest.

On the way over the hill we noticed some very beautiful bird calls in the distance. We thought they could only be Bellbirds and as we got closer to Davidson's cottage the birds and their calls surrounded us. It sounded like many clear little bells being rung out in the forest. Later we discovered that they were indeed Bellbirds. On our way back to East Boyd Bay we could hear the Bellbirds in one direction and the insane 'beep, beep, beep' of the forklift loading explosives onto the naval ship in the other direction. I couldn't help reflecting on the contrast of sound and activity.

In the end our naval ship did not leave until after 5.00pm so it was a good thing we had already decided to stay another night before heading off to the town of Eden to restock the boat with food, water, fuel and gas.

 

 

 

Goodbye Bass Strait 19th & 20th June

We departed Refuge Cove in fine, calm weather with only a small swell entering the opening.  The wind was predominately ESE and very light the whole way to Gabo Island. However, it was a forgettable trip, owing to the mashed up seas in this area. At times it was so bumpy that we both felt vaguely seasick and couldn't do much below. After the bumpy seas at the beginning of the trip, the seas started to get spikey, then around Point Hicks the sea looked prickly. Stranger little prickles stood up on the top of the waves. There was a swell coming in from the west and another from the south east as a result of a huge depression in the Tasman Sea. Compounding all this must have been various competing currents. I'm glad Bass Strait is behind us.

As soon as we had rounded Gabo Island and began the trip north the seas flattened out, the wind whispered in from the west and we sailed comfortably up to Twofold Bay and the town of Eden. As we arrived at 1.30am we decided to go to the south part of the bay to a smaller bay called East Boyd Bay. This was behind the Naval Munitions Wharf and as there were no navy ships in we could go around it into the bay and anchor. This was a sensible place to go as it is well lit and has no troublesome shallows to avoid. We were in bed and frozen at 2.00am.

Refuge Cove, Wilsons Promontory 17th to 19th June 39' 02.5" S 146' 27.9" E

Refuge Cove - what a beauty! By the time we set anchor and watched for a while to see how things stood the daylight was disappearing fast.The sun sets at 4.30 pm around here, being behind the mountains. The anchorage was surprisingly rolly as we were held side on to the reflected swell rolling around the point. Luckily we felt secure enough to ignore it and slept soundly.

Tuesday morning dawned clear and we found ourselves surrounded by densely forested mountains, blue sky and a lovely little golden beach lined on either side with large granite boulders. Out came Lily. We hadn't used her since Kangaroo Island, so it was a good time to air her out. Again we had to dodge the surge and little breakers slapping onto the beach. Our landing was well timed and after carrying the dinghy above the high tide line we set off to explore. Our part of the bay had a stream running in at the corner and two camping areas, one for hikers and one for boaters. I couldn't think why the segregation, but there it was. In the boaters camp area many of the crews that had come through had signed in with varied "we were here signs'. It was interesting seeing who had come before us and at what time of the year. Most had come in summer of course, but we did find two or three others who had been there in winter. We took a twenty minute walk through the forest to the northern end beach and observed that the swell was much larger here and that we were definitely in the right place.

After lunch we decided to take one of the bushwalks south of our bay. The path soon crossed a small bridge over the creek we had seen in the morning and upon coming around the corner we spotted a wombat grazing on the green grass at the edge of the water. Now we knew who the lawnmower was. The banks of the creek were lined with beautiful trimmed green lawn like grass. Our first wombat in the wild and he/she stayed long enough for us to get a good look.

Our bushwalk took us on a 3km climb to the summit of Kersop's Peak from where we had a wonderful view of the whole area. At this distance the sea looked calm and blue, but we knew there was a decent swell out there as it was still rolling across the entrance to the cove. It was quite a climb and we were pleased to get some exercise after a couple of days at sea.

On Wednesday a window of opportunity opened for us to make the long trip, 220nm to Eden, just over the Victorian/NSW border. As we left the cove Kersop's Peak was dwarfed amongst the mountains of Wilsons Promontory. Yesterday we thought we had done a decent climb. Must be coming from WA. Over there it would have been a big one. We motored most of the morning with little or no wind and later in the day the wind picked up enough to sail.

 

 

 

 

 

Around Wilsons Promontory 17th June

From Oberon Bay we looked out and decided the sea and wind had settled a bit from yesterday, so we headed out to have a go at rounding the Prom. This is the southern most point of mainland Australia and also ours on this trip. We tacked up to the point in the lee of the Prom and thought we were doing OK. Once we poked our head around the bottom end things changed dramatically. The sea was a rough mixture of swell and current and us punching into it. Wind (20kn) and spray were going everywhere. Some of the waves were huge and Rene bucked, tossed and belly flopped off backless waves all the way around the southern end. FUN!! Unfortunately, due to the conditions, we didn't really enjoy the dramatic scenery all around us. Also there is a Traffic Separation Zone here that directs shipping around the point. You are allowed to go directly across at right angles only if necessary. Of course a ship came along and we had to keep an eye on our position and it as well.

The lighthouse came into view and then thankfully it wasn't long before we could bear away and head for Refuge Cove on the eastern side of the Prom. It was still rough, but at least a little more comfortable off the wind. Soon Refuge Cove entry came into view and we blasted in through the opening amongst the rolling swells. Once inside the sea calmed down and became flat. We tucked into the southern corner, which seemed to be the most sheltered and were glad to drop the anchor after four hours of unpleasant, 22nm sailing.

 

 

Apollo Bay to Oberon Bay, Wilsons Promontory 15th & 16th June

We made all the usual preparations to leave, put everything away where it will not fly around if things get rough, tarp over the bed to stop it getting wet (there is a small leek there), pay the Harbour Master for our stay etc, etc. I asked Peter to go and look at the entrance to see if it was calmer. It sounded like it was. He came back and assured me it was OK, so off we went.  It looked rather lumpy as we approached, but not breaking, at least not then. We had just cleared the rock wall when I happened to look back and see a wave break across most of the entry. 'That was lucky,' I said, actually with a bit more panic than that and possibly a few choice words thrown in. Peter must have had a really good look! I guess we were lucky, but Mr Ocean just wanted to let us know that he was still in charge and watch out! It wasn't dangerous so much as we would probably have got pretty wet.

The passage across to Wilson's Promontory was lumpy and ESE winds from 0 to 18 knots the whole way made it hard to do anything below. The overnight passage was hard to take. Like all one nighters you don't get into a routine and no-one wants to go outside at 2.00am when it's freezing cold. It seemed to take an age to finally get close to the Prom, but once there we found that the western side was beautifully calm. Oberon Bay looked like paradise, albeit a rather wet and cold one, so we went in and anchored for the night. We couldn't face going around the corner in the 18-20kn winds just then. What a lovely bay, very mountainous, rugged bush and long sandy beaches. We had a wonderful, peaceful night in Oberon Bay.

Apollo Bay 12th June 38" 45' S 143" 41' E

We're back! It is s-o-o-o cold! Out with the warm gear again! Rene was sitting next to the wharf where we left her, the only difference being a few more bird poos on the deck. Thank you to all the Port Fairy people who have kept an eye on her, especially John, Joy, Doug and Kev.
After taking a look at the weather forecast we decided that it would be a good idea to make a start for Refuge Cove on Wilson's Promontory tomorrow, with the idea that Apollo Bay would be a useful stop over if the weather deteriorated. We walked up to the IGA and stocked up on stores and generally made Rene ready for departure on Tuesday.

Before we left in the morning we phoned Joy and John to say goodbye and thank them for giving us such a good time here. They came down, had morning tea and saw us off. Joy brought a present of a small bucket of Melting Moments for us to munch on for the next few days. They are delicious! Yo- yos is probably a better name for them as the only thing that is melting here at the moment is the ice-bergs. John gave us an MP3 device with several books on it listen to when we are underway. Thank you Joy and John and we wish you fair winds and happy sailing in SE Asia when you go back in July.

We set off at 11.30am with very little wind and plenty of light cloud. We motor sailed the 83 nm to Apollo Bay. A decision was made to call in there for a few days as when we checked the weather at 1am we noticed that there was going to be a strong easterly (we're going there!) Wednesday and copious quantities of rain on Thursday. So here we are, after motoring around very slowly until dawn gave us enough light to tackle the entrance safely. Contacted the harbour master and were allocated a pen at $22 per day and will stay here for the next couple of days until the weather improves. There is a fish and chip shop next to the marina and I'm thinking this should be a good place to indulge. I have just noticed that the wind is beginning to whistle in the rigging!

Bass Straight in winter! We must be mad! We thought that when we bought a DVD that some bloke produced about the anchorages around Bass Straight. He went in winter and our reaction was, 'He must be mad.' Well here we are and very glad that we have not hurried too much as even in winter it is a beautiful place to be.

 

 

Apollo Bay Marina and entrance.

 

 

 

 

Sculpture outside the fish and chip shop, Apollo Bay Marina.

 

 

 

 

Apollo Bay

 

 

Goodbye Great Australian Bight, Hello Bass Strait   13th June

 

 

Now I can say it. The Great Australian Bight treated us well - no unpleasant surprises. In fact, we found some very lovely and interesting places and friendly people. When we eventually sail back we hope to travel more slowly and do the places we missed.

 

 

 

This is our marina entrance today. I'm very glad we came in yesterday. Photos never really do justice to the real thing and at the moment this is no place to be.  We spent this morning reading and sleeping in as the rain and wind battered our warm little cocoon. Peter estimated it to be 35+ knots.  By mid morning we were able to make a dash to the shower and afterwards met up with Brian, the Harbour Master. An hour or so was spent in his office checking out anchorages on or around Wilsons Promontory and beyond. Local knowledge is advantageous when sailing in unfamiliar waters. Also he had the warmest office and it was dreadful outside.

 

 



Another wave rolls past the entrance.



 

Here I am cooking up a storm in the galley while outside the real thing rages.

 

 



 

 

OMG! Thank goodness that sign was there! I nearly walked off the edge!

Really this has to be one of our 'Nanny States' top ten efforts at sign pollution.  



Townsville and the Wedding

We have had a very warm and wonderful break in Townsville, staying with Peter's Dad at the retirement village at Rowes Bay, and helping prepare for Karin and Paul's wedding.  Catching up with Peter's family was an added bonus. I'm sure Peter and I are a kilo or two heavier as we indulged ourselves with plenty of eating out and sorbets/ice-cream at Juliettes on The Strand.

The Wedding

Prior to the wedding Karin's bridesmaids organised a day trip to Magnetic Island for her Hen's Party. The day was beautiful and we spent most of the time relaxing in Arthur Bay swimming and picnicking there. An evening meal at Cactus Jack's finished off a lovely day.

Karin and Paul's wedding was held in the Queens Gardens under a huge Rain Tree. What a perfect spot as the filtered light kept the temperature down and provided a cool green backdrop for the ceremony and photos. Of course she looked gorgeous and Paul a very handsome groom. I noticed I was not the only one reaching for the tissues.

The Picnic Bay Surf Lifesaving Club on The Strand, was a great place to hold the reception and the relaxed tropical atmosphere overlooking the bay provided the perfect place for a good party. Everything went according to plan and everyone had a wonderful time. Many people came from WA and I think they were very impressed with Townsville. The food was fantastic, the photographer did a great job and the decorations beautiful. Excellent organisation everyone.

The photographer provided a box of dress ups, masks, hats, wigs etc so that later in the night, when people warmed up, everyone had a lot of fun on the dance floor. What a great idea. This is my sister, Linda and the bride in party mode. Even Billy Connolly turned up in the form of my brother Geoffrey. There was a very daggy mullet wig that he put on and everyone was amazed at the transformation. Unfortunately there is no photo evidence of that yet.